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Showing posts with label photography basics. Show all posts
Showing posts with label photography basics. Show all posts

Photography Basics: Understanding Aperture


It's been a while since I did a photography post, so I thought now was as good a time as any! So far in this series I've covered; Photography terms defined, shooting modes, understanding white balance, and window-light portraiture. Today's photography lesson will be a more in-depth discussion about aperture.

The aperture is the hole through which the light passes through to reach the sensor or film. You can actually control the diameter of this hole on your camera. On old style cameras, there is an aperture ring that goes around the outside of the lens. Moving it around changes the diameter of the aperture.

You most likely will not have an aperture ring on your modern lenses, however, your lens still has the diaphragm inside that allows it to open and close, and you’ll have controls on on your camera that will allow you to control that diaphragm.

The numbers are called f-stops, moving up or down a stop halves or doubles the light let into the camera (the reason that the numbers look strange is down to some tricky math). Even though your camera doesn’t have an aperture ring, you’ll find that you can still adjust the aperture of your camera to these same values (although, depending on your lens, you might only be able to go as low as f4 or 5.6)

One thing that is really important to realize about the f numbers is that the smaller the number is, the larger the aperture is. This can be a bit tricky to grasp at first! If you increase the aperture by one stop (thus doubling the amount of light entering the camera), you’ll need to put the shutter speed down by one stop (and thus halving the amount of light entering the camera).

Photography Basics: Window-light Portraits

Among the most flattering way to light people, window lit portraits require indirect sunlight. The best indirect light can be achieved using a North facing window. Remove anything distracting in the background, or hang a dark backdrop far enough behind the subject to prevent capturing its texture. Shutter speeds will likely be too long to handhold.

Every window has a sweet spot. Experiment with subject position relative to the window until light falls flatteringly on the face. Sometimes the best position is with the head slightly beyond or outsdie the window jamb, putting the window side ear in the shadow. With larger panes, the light can come from too high an angle, casting shadows from the nose, cheek, and chin. To avoid this, move the subject deeper into the room or pull down the shade to baffle the top light.

Now, build the pose. To put your subject's chest in shadow and highlight the face, place his back toward the window and shoulds angled to the glass. Then turn the head towards the light. Use a small reflector opposite the window and near the subject to fill the shadowed side of the face.

Start by capturing the full face, the try a variety of 3/4 views. For profiles, swing the shoulders parallel to the window.

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Photography Basics: Understanding White Balance

Light Colour Temperature

The reason that pictures turn out with a yellow/orange cast in incandescent (tungsten) lighting and bluish in fluorescent lighting is because light has a colour temperature. A low colour temperature shifts light toward the red; a high colour temperature shifts light toward the blue. Different light sources emit light at different colour temperatures, and thus the colour cast.

By using an orange or blue filter, we absorb the orange and blue light to correct for the "imbalance" -- the net effect is a shift in the colour temperature.

In digital photography, we can simply tell the image sensor to do that colour shift for us. But how do we know in which direction of the colour temperature to shift, and by how much?

Manual White Balance


This is where the concept of "White Balance" comes in. If we can tell the camera which object in the room is white and supposed to come out white in the picture, the camera can calculate the difference between the current colour temperature of that object and the correct colour temperature of a white object. And then shift all colours by that difference.
Most advanced digital cameras therefore provide the feature to manually set the white balance. By pointing the camera at a white or gray card (angled so that it is reflecting light from the room) as a neutral reference, filling the screen completely with it, then pressing the White Balance button (or set it in the menu), the camera does its WB calculation. From then on, any picture taken will have its colour temperature shifted appropriately. It's quite simple, really, and you should not be afraid to try it out and see your indoors pictures improve considerably (assuming there is enough light for correct exposure). [A "neutral" gray is 18% gray and will reflect all colors equally.] Caution: - Ensure the card is not in shadows, but illuminated by the artificial light in the room - If you are bouncing light off the walls, ensure the card is reflecting the bounced light - Beware of mixing artificial lights -- in this case, you might want to use RAW and adjust in post processing for each light - Beware of fluorescent light: since fluorescent light does not contain all the spectrum of light, you may obtain unexpected results

Preset White Balance


To help us in those special situations without having to go through the trouble of manually setting the white balance everytime, cameras provide preset WB settings such as, Tungsten, Fluorescent, Cloudy, Sunny, etc. Using preset WB can improve on a picture, especially under indoors lighting.

Auto White Balance

Since the days of the Kodak Brownie cameras, manufacturers have tried to automate everything for us. Hence, today's digital cameras also all sport an Auto White Balance (AWB) function. Depending on the camera brand, some AWB works better than others. On the whole, though, AWB works very well in sunny and cloudy outdoors, and fine for most indoors situations (a little orange or bluish cast does sometimes contribute to the mood of the picture anyway, e.g. the warm orangle glow of a candle).

Set your digital camera to AWB and take pictures under tungsten, fluorescent, and mixed lighting (i.e. tungsten or fluorescent, plus natural light coming through the window), and see if the results are OK. If they are, you can just use AWB.

Snow

Pictures of snow scenes typically reproduce the snow not as white but with a bluish tinge. Sometimes, the blue adds to the mood of the picture, but at other times you may want to remove the blue.

If your digital camera allows custom WB, then set the White to the snow and the blue should disappear.

Special Effects

Once you've selected a WB setting, just remember to reset this white balance setting when you head back outdoors into natural light, or you may end up with some strange, out of this world, colours.

In fact, by dialing in a WB setting inappropriate for the lighting situation allows us to create some special effects.

Let's say you are taking a picture outdoors and you want to make the light warmer, perhaps creating a late evening, sunset effect. To do that, we dial in a Fluorescent WB, in effect telling the camera that the light is too cool. The camera responds by shifting every colour toward the warm, red values. Dial in a Tungsten WB, and the camera shifts all colours toward the cool, blue values. Lots of trial and error recommended here.

RAW File Format

A discussion in WB would not be complete without a mention of the RAW file format available in many advanced digital cameras. When you save an image in RAW file format, you are saving it the way the image sensor sees it -- without applying any adjustments (including white balance) to it. In fact, the camera ignores any WB setting you dial in.

Later, in an image editing software with the appropriate RAW plug-in, you can convert the RAW image to JPEG, and apply any colour temperature shift. Undo your change and try again, ad infinitum, in as fine an increment as you wish, until you obtain perfect colour balance.

Some professional photographers always use RAW file format. Saving in RAW file format comes at a price because it takes so much longer to save a RAW image that it might not be practical in many picture taking situations. Professional dSLRs (and some prosumer models) have internal buffers that allow RAW images to be taken one after the other in quite rapid succession without having to wait for the saving of one image to be completed before you can take the next picture.

If you are taking landscapes, and it's early in the morning or late in the evening, or you are not too sure of which WB setting to use, try it in RAW.

A few digital cameras even allow you to save an image in both RAW and JPEG simultaneously, though time to write to memory card is proportionally increased.

Summary

For most of us, Auto WB is fine and does a pretty good job in diverse situations, outdoors and indoors.

For those occasions when you are not happy with the colour cast of your picture, choose one of the preset WB settings.

If this still does not give you what you want, consider manually setting the white balance by using a white card or sheet of paper (or white T-Shirt, etc.).

And, for ultimate control over white balance, consider shooting in RAW file format, and adjust in post-processing.

Previous topics: Shooting modes, Photography terms defined
Next topic: Understanding Aperture

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This tutorial provided by: Photoxels

Earth Day-Green Photography Tips

You know me, I'm not really the preachy type.

But hey, it’s
Earth Daytoday, right? So I’ve gathered a few useful pointers on how to keep your photographic habits from smacking the environment around too much. I'm firmly anti-smacking.
If you want some help
cleaning up your act, I got ya covered. If not, that’s cool too.

I like you either way.

1: Go Digital

If you haven’t gone digital yet, it might be time to make the switch. Digital photography is easier on the landfills: less packaging, no used film cans in the trash. The film development process also involves toxic chemicals, and uses a tremendous amount of water and electricity.

Digital equipment may be more expensive in the short run, but you’ll eventually save money on film and processing.

2: Reuse Your Film Containers

Still shooting film? Don’t throw out your plastic film containers. Ritz Cameras accepts them for recycling at their stores.

Better yet, make stuff out of them! You can store tiny things in them: craft supplies, tiny screws, or your very own portable ant farm. Or go really green and use them to grow pocket plants!

3: Switch Batteries

batteriesTry using rechargeable batteries in your camera instead of ordinary ones. If you have a choice, pick lithium over nickel since it’s a bit less toxic. When your regular batteries die, don’t throw them out. There are lots of places that recycle them. Earth911 has loads of battery usage tips and a recycling location finder.

If your camera came with a custom rechargeable battery, charging it often may extend its life. Switching back and forth between 2 batteries can also keep them going longer. If you want more info, take a look at this article on extending your battery’s life.

4: Carry a Charge

solar camera bagUse a solar charger camera bag. It’s a regular camera bag, except for the solar panel on the top that charges your camera for you. It’s just so cool. Amazon has them for about $150.

5: Donate

Upgrading to a new camera? Donate your old one. The New Orleans Kid Camera Project and Picture Tomorrow both accept used cameras. Your local schools or after-school programs might also be able to use them.

6: Recycle

If you’ve completely busted your old camera, recycle that puppy. Staples stores accept used electronics for recycling, including cameras, cell phones and computers. They also take empty inkjet cartridges, so you don’t have to add those to the landfill either. Andrew Darlow’s article on Photojojo Uncut has buckets of good info.

7: Make Some Money

coinsIf you have a lot of stuff to donate or recycle, use it to make some money! Ecophones sponsors recycling fundraisers. They take cameras, cell phones, video games; you name it. Send in your boxes of junk electronics and they’ll send you a check.

It’s a great way to handle large recycling projects, say at your office or school. If you wanna get super-eco-hardcore, you can donate the check to an environmental charity. Whoa. Gnarly.

8: Switch Paper

GreenPix makes 100% post-consumer recycled inkjet paper. It’s available in matte finish, and comes in sizes from 4×6 all the way up to 24×36! Check out a review at Leafygreen.info, or buy it at Red River.

9: Reuse Unwanted Photos

If you’re using digital, only print the photos you really want. If you’re shooting film, don’t automatically get doubles. You can always print more of the ones you like.

If you have photos you don’t like, don’t throw them out. Write to-do lists on the back. Or write an address on the back, slap a stamp on them and send them as postcards. Cut them into fancy shapes and use them as gift tags. If you want to get exceptionally post-modern about it you can make them into a frame for another photo.

10: Use Your Camera For Good

If there’s a local environmental issue that really matters to you, take pictures of what’s going on. Call up whatever organization is fighting the problem and volunteer to take photos. They may need help getting the word out, and great pictures can make a big difference in raising awareness.

More Resources

  • Recycling meets fashion: bracelets made out of discarded camera components. Yeah, they’re pricey, but we totally want one. (via Boing Boing)
  • I heard Grist’s book Wake Up & Smell the Planet was funny, so I checked it out. And you know what? It is. Lots of tips on living green, plus some yukkity-yuk-yuk. I approve.


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Tips provided by Photojojo.

Photography Basics: Lesson Two

Today's photography lesson is choosing a mode to shoot in. Most cameras have a number of shooting modes that dictate what exposure decisions will be made by the camera and what decisions will be left up to you. The first task when approaching a shot is choosing the appropriate shooting mode.

The subject matter or style of shooting often dictates a shooting mode. For example, you may be shooting an event where the light is very low, therefore you will need to choose a mode that allows for control of shutter speed, to guarantee sharp images. Maybe you're in a situation with good lighting and decide to choose a mode that allows for control of aperture, so you can blur out the background.
dialmenu
Often, shooting on full automatic will be all you need to do. Don't worry that this will make you a "wimpy photographer". Each situation is unique, but there are general guidelines you can follow to determine when you should use each shooting mode. As you learn more about your camera and photography, you'll get a better idea of which mode to choose.

Full Automatic

Most automatic modes take care of everything. They select the white balance, shutter speed, aperture, and whether or not to use a flash. For the most part, the automatic setting will do a good job in just about any situation.

Program Mode

Program mode offers most of the automatic functionality of a fully automatic mode--automatic white balance, light metering, exposure choices--but allows you to override some options. Program mode will let you make your own selection of ISO, white balance, and exposure compensation. Program mode wil always prioritize shutter speed, to try to guarantee a speed that is fast enough to prevent blurring caused by camera shake.

Shutter Priority and Aperture Priority Modes

Automatic modes can yield excellent results, but they can also make assumptions about how you want your image to look.
Shutter priority mod
e allows you to select the sutter speed you'd like to use. The camera then selects the appropriate aperture. Shutter priority is ideal for times when you want to freeze motion, such as at a sporting event, because it lets you force the camera to shoot with a particular shutter speed.
Aperture priority mode works the same way, but allows you to select and aperture and leaves the choice of shutter speed up to the camera. Aperture priority modes give you control over the depth of field in an image, allowing you to control how much of the image is in focus.
Most shutter and aperture priority modes also yield control of ISO and white balance.

Manual Mode

Full manual mode gives you control of everything. Although this may seem like the ultimate 'power user' mode, you may find that you often only need control of one exposure parameter or another, and so you will choose a priority mode. On the other hand, manual mode is a must for complete creative freedom and for difficult lighting situations.

Special Shooting Modes

Some cameras offer special shooting modes for specific circumstances. In these modes, certain features are preset. Landscape modes typically focus on infinity and select smaller apertures to ensure maximum depth of field. Before you use any of these modes, check the camera's documentation and be sure you understand the settings that may be affected.

As you learn more about the decisions you make when you shoot, choosing a mode will become more obvious.

Previous lesson: Photography terms defined
Next lesson: White balance

Photography Basics: Lesson One

When first upgrading from a Point and Shoot digital camera to a Digital SLR, all the knobs and lenses and terminology can be quite intimidating. I don't have any tips to make it easier, other than to practice, practice, practice!

Today we'll start from the very beginning with exposures: apertures, shutter speeds, and ISO.

First, let's define these terms.

Aperture~an opening that is used to control the amount of light passing through the lens of a camera. Typically constructed as an expanding and contracting iris. Measured in f-stops.

f-stop~
values are the ratio of the focal length of the lens to the diameter of the opening in the aperture.

Shutter
~a mechanism that sits in front of the focal plane in a camera and can open and close to expose the image senor or film to light.

ISO~a measure of a film's "speed" or light sensitivity. The higher the ISO, the more sensitive the film. Digital camera sensors are also rated using the ISO scale.

OK, good, everything is now perfectly clear right?

As you increase your shutter speed, you need to decrease your aperture. This lets in more light compensating for the fact that the shutter is open for a shorter time. This relationship is called reciprocity because of the reciprocal relationship between the two values. Apertures and shutter speeds typically double with each setting.

Confused yet?

The higher the ISO rating, the more sensitive the film is to light. A film with a higher ISO rating doesn't need as long of an exposure to make an image. A high ISO rating facilitates shooting in low light situations and in bright daylight with faster shutter speeds and smaller apertures. The drawback is that faster film means images with lots of grain.

ISO is the third factor you can control when using a digital camera giving them tremendous advantage over traditional film cameras.

Next topic: Shooting modes